Inside Chanel, Chapter XII

“Immerse yourself in the street where it all began, la rue Cambon. Leave the black and white sobriety of the Haute Couture salon and enter the baroque world of Mademoiselle’s apartment. Then, indulge at the Ritz, before opening the door of 18, Place Vendôme to discover the world of Fine Jewelry. Finally, gaze upon the monumental theater of the CHANEL fashion shows: the Grand Palais.
From Gabrielle Chanel to Karl Lagerfeld, in Chapter 12 of Inside CHANEL, discover these legendary locations and how the CHANEL story continues to be written.”

New York Fashion Week // Spring Summer 2016

If you’re been living under a rock, I must tell you that New York was in a full swing this week, models and celebrities were in town and everything was just more alluring than usual. Ready- to-wear collections are out and now that New York Fashion Week is dunzo it’s the perfect time to review and highlight one of the most relevant fashion weeks in the world.

I must admit I looked really nerdy and addicted to my iphone this week (sorry for the phubbing friends!) but NYFW was on fire: Snapchat, Periscope, Instagram, Vogue Runway and NYFW app were my best friends. There was always something going on, shows, after parties and lectures. Here goes my picks for best collections of 2016 NYFW:

September 10th

//Tadashi Shoji

“Every woman, regardless of size and shape, deserves to feel confident, comfortable and gorgeous.” It is this belief that drives Tadashi Shoji and his namesake brand. From the fabric to the fit, a Tadashi dress is infused with glamour and ease.

With a subtle Chinese inspiration, through the sound and through the robes, loose clothes and embroilment, Tadashi was in love with black, white, violet and dark turquoise. Elegant and composed, Tadashi never disappoints.

September 11th

On this particular day, Americans recall on 9/11, and so did NYFW.

//Givenchy

Ricardo Tisci changed traditions and presented his collection in New York this year. Alongside artistic director Marina Abramovic, they created the venue entirely out of recycled materials.”It was a very honest collection,” said the designer backstage, proclaiming his collection was very romantic and about love, mix and matching the bride and groom as inspiration to transpose masculine and feminine elements.

September 12th

//Alexander Wang

The departure of Wang from Balenciaga seemed to help him focus on his signature brand this year, just in time the brand’s 10 years celebration. “I always had this fantasy of working in fashion, just never thought it would take me this far so soon”, said the designer in a film almost at the end of the show. For 10 years, Wang has made a bridge from high fashion to streetwear, always representing youth coolness with a edgy glamour touch, a very new yorkish attitude, and this show was no exception. Bombers, leather, denim, oversized jackets and oversized tees, hoodies… who said that too cool for school wasn’t cool?

September 13th

// Thakoon

Vogue felt like “Urbanity” was the most appropriate to describe this collection. Between TIE-DYE and  fashion tricks,Thakoon Panichgul had fun this season. Changing a shape of a man’s shirt and using for shorts or dress hems is one of the best examples. Floral dresses and white jackets seemed to be the rule for next summer.

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// Hood by Hair (HBA)

HBA started in 2006 with t-shirts and sweatshirts and until this day, Shayne Oliver has shown us underground streetwear insanity. This collection was no different, a total club rage with a rebellious smell that look like intentionally undone.

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//Public School

Designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne founded Public School in 2008  and since then they redefined menswear and women’s wear by referencing music and art. By stepping up as DKNY new creative directors, the crowd was bigger than usual. Making a revival of nineties with bombers and oversized wear mixed with a more relaxed pyjamas flavor, loungewear and with a masculine tailoring, they had found beauty in opposites.

PUBLIC SCHOOL S/S SPRING 2016 COLLECTION from NYFW on Vimeo.

// DVF

With her fashion show and the premiere of the new season of her tv show House of DVF, it was a big day for Diane. Remembering her best years, Diane went back on seventies with a modern touch, creating a boho style with ethnic prints and strong colour palette. Never loosing her consistent classy signature, Diane invited Karlie Kloss, Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner and Binx Walton to embody one of the most exciting runway shows of the week, a supermodel parade.

//Prabal Gurung

Prabal Gurung launched his eponymous collection in 2009. Born in Singapore, he was raised in Kathmandu, Nepal. This is a key point on this year’s fashion show, since he opens the show with Buddhist monks to share is gratitude for the support received after the devastating earthquake in Nepal this year. On Instagram, Prabal left a message on the day of the show:

“With visuals of destruction and despair flooding in after Nepal’s devastating earthquake, I could not help but feel that the world in which I grew up had crumbled. It seemed as though part of my identity was unraveling with it.
I felt helpless halfway around the world, and I was compelled to do something beyond raising money for my foundation. I wanted the world to experience a glimpse of what Nepal means to me. Stories that have been shared sitting on a hand-carved window seat overlooking the 15th Century Royal Palace Square. Monks chanting in the juniper incense-filled monastery in which I unfailingly visit to seek refuge every time I return home. Trails of self-discovery leading to the majestic mountains through which I have trekked. These are a few of the images that raced through my mind as I sat down to sketch my Spring Collection – a collage of my memories gathered.

Fashion has been my saviour many times in my life, but today I am reminded of two of those very special moments. The first time – when I felt my creativity and passion being stifled in Nepal – it gave me the courage to follow my dreams and an opportunity to explore the world. It allowed me to flourish and discover myself.

The second time – when the devastating earthquake hit Nepal and I felt part of my identity dissolving – the support that the Fashion World extended to me and thousands of Nepalis back home gave us the strength to regain a sense of self, hope and optimism. The first people that rose to support were my friends and colleagues in the fashion industry. The continuous outpour of generosity has been extremely humbling. I will be forever grateful. Today is about gratitude for all the kindness. Today is about renewed faith in the goodness of humanity. Today is about celebration of the empathy exhibited. Today is about prayer and blessings for each of us here to follow our passion and make a difference.
With these thoughts in mind I share with you a very personal gesture of gratitude.

Thank you. – Prabal

Through the warm colour palette we can observe the elegance and at the same time the freshness on a sunset of colors. It looks like a summertime afternoon at its “chicest”, with an elegance, a feminine cut and Prabal’s hand.

#DESIGNDISRUPTED

PRABAL GURUNG S/S 2016 COLLECTION from NYFW on Vimeo.

September 14th

//Tommy Hilfiger

Since the beginning in 1969, Tommy Hilfiger was defined as the all-American cool making his unique twist on classic wearing. It remains with a relaxed, youthful attitude which is a distinctive hallmark throughout all of Hilfiger’s subsequent collections. This season Hilfiger didn’t loose any of the sparkle collaborating with designer Randall Peacock. With a giant swimming pool circled by a boardwalk catwalk with palm trees, a Bob Marley soundtrack and a Tiki bar (furnished with a chess set, for models seeking diversion), we knew that he wanted to do “a fun tribute to the islands where I holiday every year: Mustique, where we have a house; St Bart’s; Jamaica”. Bikinis and trikinis were a big presence on the runway, as well as, floral print dresses, stripes and netted tops.

// 3.1 Philip Lim

Another celebration was in order in NYFW, 3.1 Philip Lim celebrated the brand’s 10th anniversary with the theme: “Sands of Time”. Not running away from a dry theme, beije,  military green and floral prints ran the runway.

// Reem Acra

Reem Acra creates unique designs through diverse cultural elements, never overlooking elegant. Bridal couture was her entrance announcing the beginning of a new era. Combining tradition with a modern aesthetic, she continuously redefines the boundaries of luxury bridal. She launched Reem Acra New York in 1997. In 2008 Reem Acra expanded into Ready to Wear, which leads us to today,  where she is recognized as one of the leading designers in the world of fashion. With an arabic influence, strong tones, metallic embroidery and bold accessories, we feel like being transported to a Marrakesh market.

// Rag & Bone

Marcus Wainwright and David Neville’s dresses and sneakers sends a message to all the cool girls out there. With neon yellow, white, orange and black tones, tube dresses seemed to be the rule and bombers and silk patch pockets were screaming, though girls alert!

September 15th

// Oscar de la Renta

Nina Ricci out, Peter Copping in, and with that he proved that the Latin ancestry of the brand was once again kept! It was an evening wear collection, Copping choose a carmen pump, matador beading and flamenco flounces, old signatures of Oscar de La Renta, not forgetting the typical Oscar girl’s jewels .

“A ruby knit cardigan was fastened with ribbons, a carnation print silk gown accessorized with a black lace dickey while a mink coat took on the form of floral embroidery.” said Vogue.

It was sophisticated, glamorous and exquisite, you’ve done well Peter Copping!

// Vera Wang

Vera Wang minimalism and blurred gender step up this season. In a Pulp Fiction’esque, the designer loved the black and white affair, geometric lines, sparkly sequins and red representing the most bold colour of the collection. Vera celebrated independent women around the globe in the spring summer 2016.

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// Rodarte

Rodarte’s collection was a total revival two decades, the Seventies and Eighties, from layers of sequins to lace and fuzz, Rodarte did it all. Scarves, skater dresses and groupie jackets were in order. Boho meets classy, designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy said that they had been inspired by poets to create this magical revival storytelling.

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September 16th

// Boss

From summer yellows, to coral oranges, greys, oceanic blues and fresh whites, this was a surprising contrast to previous collections.

“Jason Wu, the Creative Director for Boss, transformed the infamous Boss suit blazer into an elegant ankle length coat while still maintaining a tailored form,” sai Elle. Fringe details emphasizing the ’70s trend is definitely here to stay. Showing prints was a first for the brand: a grey  and soft orange floral. It was a more relaxed, delicate and breezy collection just in time for spring. The definition of this collection is unexpected and refreshing.

// DKNY

A new era has come with Dao Yi &Maxwell (Public School), the duo debuted this season after Donna Karan step out to pursue her philanthropic causes. Dedicating their first collection to New York, the palette — black, white, cement gray and blue — were a NY favorites.

“And it’s one that left behind some of the more obvious and novelty translations of New York that we’d seen before, in favor of something that meant business, professionalism and polish at its core. These clothes weren’t for the kids of NYC, slogan-smothered or riffing on Big Apple anecdotes, they were for women,” said Vogue.

// Anna Sui

Anna Sui’s collections take you on a creative journey that is unparalleled in the world of fashion. Mixing vintage styles with her current cultural obsessions, she effortlessly makes hip and exuberant original clothes.

This season, the runway was decorated with palm trees and the music transported the audience to Hawaii of the 1930’s. With ukuleles and vibrant colors that reminded us of the ocean.  She definitely invoked an Honolulu vibe, with bowling shirts and souvenir jackets in a Anna Sui twist. Printed transparent fabrics and prints including flowers, pineapples and sea/ocean looks.

// Michael Kors

“Opening with a surprisingly austere black linen canvas coat over a white shirt ,Sasha Pivarova looked more like she had skipped summer altogether and had fast -orwarded into a Northern European autumn. That white poplin shirt became a staple of the collection, which continued to escape the usual beachy feeling of Kors,” said Vogue.

Summer-in-the-city dresses were complimented by a suede wrapped skirt, an oversized gaberdine trench and crushed cotton utility jackets and trousers. Occasionally a piece of his immaculate beachwear appeared in a deep brown accessorized by his low-slung leather bags but in the main this collection.

// Yeezy Season 2 by Kanye West

Kanye West is one of the biggest figures in the world- a musician, a producer, a designer and definitely, a trendsetter- but he must continue his journey with caution. And that’s what it seems to me that he’s doing, growing  in a slow pace, therefore, much like the YEEZY Season 1, an army of models was released. Layered looks, distressed fabrics and undone hemlines. This season minimal tones toke the runway again, but this time lighter: nude, putty, khaki and clay made for a cohesive palette. Kanye accomplished a very rare thing, there wasn’t a single piece that could stand out. Interesting observation is that darker colors belonged to darker skins, and lighter colors to whiter skins; in a time of so many stereotypes being voiced and broken, did he want to make a statement? My opinion is yes he did, a very beautiful one!

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// Proenza Schouler

Jack Mccollough and Lazaro Hernandez did not let their fans down this season. The majority of the looks were in black or white or a mixture of both accessorized by metal leaf earrings and octagonal pillar heeled shoes.

“Anyone looking for a plain jacket, skirt it simple coat will have looked in vain but it is Proenza’s strength that although these show pieces appeared relatively unwearable they also worked as a convincing whole,” said Vogue.

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September 17th

// Ralph Lauren

French Riviera and Paris went to New York. What to pack for it? Ralph suggests bold graphic maxi-dresses in lines of red and blue; wide palazzo pants and fine-knit bodysuits complete with cutouts. Of course, you’ll need a ballgown – in stripes – and plenty of preppy shirting, for which the designer is so well-known. some ladylike little box bags or raffia numbers with “Ralph” stitched on. Top that off with a pair of huge Eighties visor sunglasses and you have the Ralph Lauren mini-break done.

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//Calvin Klein

But it was roughed up too, in just the right amount – for frayed edges, notes of distress and chains laced over shoulders of wispy light slips. It was raw, loose and baggy, pretty dresses gently billowing in floral prints, trails of ribbon here and there to make the point. There’s no doubt you’ll have a great summer wearing these.

And while we all like a slip dress, it was the sequin coat mash-ups that proved to be standouts here.

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// Marc Jacobs

Arrived to one of the last shows of the night, it looked more like a movie premiere. Marc is known for putting on quite the show, and that night people were pleased again. Models taking a red carpet with an orchestra to accompany them as they went. The tune of choice was Sabotage by Rage Against The Machine. Americana prints, flags and Vegas crystals, silhouettes from the Forties, gowns and feathers or fuzzy stoles. It was one of the most creative catwalks of this season.

This was another amazing Fashion Week in one of the most influential cities in the world, New York. Considered to show the biggest avant-garde collections in fashion, ready-to-wear will be prêt-à-porter very soon.

 

The Man in the Crowd, what is trends all about?

First things first: this is a REPOST from a post of mine for The World Wide Wardrobe Blog. Check that up for more information on trends and street style from all over the world!

BRIAN: Look, you’ve got it all wrong! You don’t need to follow me, you don’t need to follow anybody! You’ve got to think for your selves! You’re all individuals!

CROWD: Yes! We’re all individuals!

BRIAN: You’re all different!

CROWD: Yes, we are all different!

MAN IN THE CROWD: I’m not…

CROWD: Schhh!

From Monty Phyton’s Life of Brian

Everyday we are expose to new information and ideas since we wake up until we go to sleep, in fact the only place where we are safe is when we dream and even there, scientists claim we are just processing all the information of the previous day. Many of us use some of this daily information as an inspiration and font for the creative process of creating trends, even if they don’t realize it.

What is a trend though?  

A trend is a creative and social process that implies change, in case of fashion, a change on style or taste. It is based in desires, where individuals very different from each other and without a mutual vision, found themselves with the same curiosity, because trends intrigue us. Our most conscious acts can be driven from trends because a trend is not only a commercial success. For example, choosing a child’s name can be based on a trend.

There is always what we call classics, a eternal style that runs through age but doesn’t get old and goes with everything.  Timeless colours, shapes and silhouettes. Coco Chanel’s  ‘little black dress’, a Burberry’s trench coat, an ageless leather jacket or even those trusty jeans you know you’ll have forever. As for the 90s revival, topknots, or the return of the flare – these fleeting fashions will come and go, season by season, but classics are perpetual trends that can live in your closet and never have to leave.

Chanel's Little black dress
Chanel’s Little black dress

At the other end of the spectrum comes short-lived trends, or ‘fads’ – forms of behaviour that are developed among a large groups of people, that are followed with enthusiasm and that grow pace quickly, but peak quickly. A lot of fashion trends can be considered ‘fads’ because of the seasonality of fashion, maybe because social media deemed it ‘cool’ for 5 minutes, or perhaps it was perceived popular by one’s peers. When the number of people adopting said behaviour increases quickly, the trend has officially caught on, but the perception of novelty is lost and the trend becomes a ‘fad’. Even if some people still use them and fashion media almost beg them to stop, these are some fads you may recognize from recent years:

// UGG Boots, 2003
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Started out by Oprah Winfrey and followed by celebrities they were the anthem of comfort, but today we know better and I admit I now use them as slippers for the winter days. So they didn’t necessary go away but we don’t want to make a statement with them every time we want to go out of the house.

// Shutter Shades, 2008

SHUTTER SHADES

Thanks Kanye West, you flooded discos with this! Btw, they also are called the Venetian Blinders and the first sunglasses date from the 1950’s.

// Jelly Bracelets and Chokers (been around since the 1980’s)

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Coming and going as a consistent fad and not always considered as innocent as they pretend to be (check ‘snap game’ on google and prepared to be chocked!) these are without a doubt the fad motto.

Although the term trend may be interconnected with fad, a trend has a better chance to evolve into a relatively permanent change.  Nevertheless, some changes are long-lived because they have a true potential to become a long-term influence on the market. Adopted by many people, these changes are what I’ve been calling by trends. It never just happens “out of the blue”. Normally it all starts with trendsetters (or early adopters), people that start or follow on an early stage a fashion trend before the majority.

// Why? Because of their personalities, his/her craving for changes and open mind to new innovative styles.

// Where? When you know the pattern behind trends, the best way to get to know actual trends is to go to places where you can observe the trendsetters. Normally, we find them in large cities and the tendency is for spreading to the rest of the country and then it takes on a global scale. Main trendsetters cities are New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco in U.S.A.; London, Paris and Milan in Europe and Tokyo and Seoul in Asia.

// How? The first step is the acceptance by many trendsetters in groups such as designers, artists, young people, celebrities, wealthy people. They mingle with other people who will observe these trends and copy them. It takes years to a style or taste to change, despite the help from all kinds of media, from magazines and instagrams to movies. The time will vary with how low the object’s visibility is, for exemple hair styles change faster than underwear styles.

Sometimes I wondered if designers had a secret meeting before fashion weeks to agree on patterns and styles for the season, although the ideia is much funnier than the reality the true is that they all rely on trend forecasting. They may have the same ideas at the same time because they are exposed to similar influences and they are looking for inspiration. They start searching while we are still analyzing the recent fashion shows and waiting for the clothes to get to stores. An example of trend forecasting is Dior Spring Summer 2007 haute couture show, visually inspired on traditional Japanese kimonos and interesting to observe that the movie The Memoirs of a Geisha film came out before that and was a huge box office.

Movie: Memoirs of a Geisha
Movie: Memoirs of a Geisha
Dior haute couture Spring Summer 2007
Dior haute couture Spring Summer 2007

Is it just coincidence?! It is really fascinating to track trends through fashion contributions because you can usually spot trends and matching them with something, normally visually alluring, that may have impacted the designers inspiration. Following trends is fascinating, and if you have an abundant knowledge of everything from culture and art, to literature and politics, you can analyse and surmise what might come next in the fashion world.

So, keep your eyes open people!