What is unique about Lisboa Fashion Week is that there isn’t a production per brand but an association called ModaLisboa who delivers the place and production to all designers’ collections.
“ModaLisboa | Lisboa Fashion Week is seen as the most ambitious and well succeeded project in Portuguese Fashion. Created in 1991, ModaLisboa is recognized to be the first Independent Fashion Week, becoming thus pioneer on a world decentralization movement of the fashion market to other capital cities, that begun years later. By continuously working with innovative designers and new concepts, ModaLisboa has reached international prestige, awarded for its communication and design. Lisboa Fashion Week is integrated on the international fashion calendar, right after Paris. Occurring over three days of March and October, ModaLisboa presents collections of the most recognized designers and the most promising young Designers of Portuguese Fashion, for a professional public, composed by national and international journalists, buyers, textile industry representatives, institutional representatives and personalities of art and cultural worlds.” If you want to know more go to modalisboa.pt
So, for three days I was able to help managing, produce and control 20 shows plus a special program called Sangue Novo (New Blood) which helps new designers to show their work on a runway in hopes of winning a scholarship in Milan. This program accepted 10 designers this season.
I worked as a volunteer at Lisboa Fashion Week Spring Summer 2016, helping on public management by checking invites and admissions to the runways’ shows; allocating press, designer’s friends & family and public in general by sitting them on their places. I helped controlling backstage entries, as well as helping and solving some problems that came along: with the structure of the runway (moving chairs, setting gifts, giving solutions to some production malfunction), with guests (lost tickets and personal stuff). And always working with a team. This was such an enjoyable job and really taught me a lot.
In terms of the Spring Summer 2016 collections, I was kinda creating a fun idea while watching runway shows, so I created my own recognition system that I now call Wonderland Awards. Therefore, in my opinion these were my top best Portuguese designers this season:
(NOTE: to see more about every designer I enunciate here, click on their names, it will open a link from ModaLisboa.)
Production // Nuno Gama
Who ever knows a bit about Nuno Gama’s work, knows he’s in love with his country and history. He, above all, respects Portugal’s heritage and delivers an amazing show, showing he really cares about creating a moment with the viewer. He is a storyteller that happens to make gorgeous garments. The following footage doesn’t reflect the magnificence that is a Nuno Gama’s runway show, including a big fish, dragoons, tai-chi professionals and a bit of theatre, it’s a show that people can only explain by seeing for themselves.
In the last edition of ModaLisboa, we sailed to the Cape of Good Hope.
This season, we face the sea monster head on with a strong urge to be tied to the helm. Intrepid, we sail around the cape with the desire for that unique universalism which the Portuguese language gave to the world, in search of the incredible Africa, and across the immense Indian Ocean to the silent Asian beauty of blossoming almond trees.
We passionately observe the return of Dandyism, our best traditions, and the resurgence of the codes of elegance in which man is renewed through the pure pleasure of pampering himself.
“The” coat has returned in full force and the worldly “man” gives in to the melody of the best tradition in tailoring expertise, the “hand” to the touch, the soft fall of the fabric, the comfort and dynamism in a body of cosmopolitan attitude that only the richness of past experience, together with advanced technology, orchestrates this epic poem.
With him, we see the return of the tailor-made, personalized and unique.
With him, we see the permanence of luxury and color, and the renewal of the everlasting classics. The excellence of the shirts, ribbons, kerchiefs, and ties complete this cycle of elegance with “the” shoe.
For him, in fascination we travelled around the four corners of the world from which we brought back as much as our eyes could allow, in the reminiscence of formal wear, recovering the lost pride of the riches and nobility of the unique History of the mission of our people whom I call mine.
Collection // Lidija Kolovrat
For me, it was like bourgeoisie and aristocratic from sec XVI meeting Japanese culture. The collection was the most trendy ready-to-wear, transmitting comfort and bringing to Portugal’s fashion the true sense of creating differently but wearable. It pleased the eye with that “wow” factor that is needed, in my opinion, in Portugal’s fashion. There was even a couple of people that stood up and clapped every time they were amazed by an outfit. Now, if this isn’t living proof that this collection was great, I don’t know what is.
INVITATION FOR COFFEE
During my childhood I was fascinated by the “patterns” left by the coffee in the bottom of the cup. Also because I was raised in a culture where women talked about these elements, foreseeing happenings and life situations… I’ve transformed this into a daily ritual, improving my connection with the Universe and the meanings of its abstract nature.
The simple fact of doing it allowed me (and I truly believe that allow us all!!) to live life in a less rational way.
In this context emerges the Kolovrat symbol, meaning movement and prosperity, herein introduced as a future iconic brand symbol.
With no restraints regarding form, the silhouettes are the outcome of the combination between the abstract and the composition of worked circular shapes and refined “classical” lines, evolving into monochromatic tones of black and white, with a touch of blue, introduced through the original artworks of coffee elements.
These garments “belong” to a highly demanding and sophisticated clientele who wear clothes with feeling, as a part of their personality.
Overall Concept // Filipe Faísca
Filipe Faísca made every contemporary woman in that room relate to his collection. Narrated by a woman who told testimonies from traveller dreamy women that shared their uncertainties, expectations, social requirements, unfulfilled dreams. From a marketeer point of view, I felt in love with the way Filipe transmitted so clearly the women for whom he creates. The soundtrack, the sexy parisian style made us feel like “I’m every woman”, Whitney Houston would have been proud.
“Time starts when women begin …” – Herberto Helder
The voyage” is life’s metaphor. We leave a place and time towards another geography and timezone.
We take all life’s uncertainties, the weight of social demands, the curiosity about the unknown, the dreams yet to come true…though confident in our expectations.
We will arrive somewhere. We will arrive one day. We will arrive in time.
“I” will always be a personal statement. Now!
Most Creative // Dino Alves
From make-up and hairstyle to garments, Dino Alves seemed to construct clouds for us to wear. Funny how I saw clouds and rainy days through his clothing and how those are the perfect conditions to imagine and create new ideas, to be in the clouds, to dream and to idealize statements. Ironic how I felt that Dino was being extremely creative and then I found out that his collection was about the process of being creative. I couldn’t just not give him this award.
MY PROCESS – DIARY OF A COLLECTION
An idea scratched on a paper crumpled and thrown away, it’s not always a lost idea. It is not an end in itself but a means to get somewhere. Just a step like so many to reach the goal.
This collection is inspired in the process of creating a collection or any other creative/artistic project that involves sketching, annotating, erasing, crumpling primary ideas, testing colour combinations, shapes, dialogues that one often abandons but that help us to get to what we want to show.
This is my process and this collection speaks a little of that.
Projected lines that build ideas and define paths, crumpled papers that hide mistakes and troubled beginnings, an attempt and another and yet another until it results in an effective expression of what we want to communicate.
The Boldest // Olga Noronha
Probably because it was a runway that stayed stagnant and the public was the one who had to circulate, probably because is a concept inspired on a disease, probably because it’s shown the contrary of it’s secondary effects, probably because it’s a collection with philanthropic motives or probably because shoes are made of hair. This was probably the bravest and boldest collection of all season and deserves a spot here for that reason! (Did I said “probably because” again? Probably not.)
A collection that emphasizes the lack and loss of hair, due to Alopecia and chemotherapy secondary effects. It metaphorizes it’s nonexistence, using a total abundance of hair, presented in various different forms and shapes, giving wings to a “quasi- (capillary) hallucination”.
This collection is partially sponsored by Reebok and has Joana Neves, Roger Spy and Say My Name as collaborators.
The footwear – Olga Noronha X Reebok will be auctioned during and after the show and all the profits will revert to IPO.
Best Sangue Novo (New Blood)
One of the winners of this program, Sara Santos is going for five weeks to Domus Academy in Milan, Italy. Her clothing was so well made, with some not so obvious finishing details that made me smile, and the colors got me hooked! I was rooting for her to win, which she did.
“Teentakeover” is the result from the fusion of street and sportswear looks, driven by a subculture of the 1960s, recently created by Sara Santos.
The focus of “Teentakeover” is the traditional style of Mod culture from “the rebels without a cause”, a group of British teenagers that moved in scooters and used their way of dressing to differentiate themselves from the mainstream culture, setting themselves apart from others. They saw themselves as nonconformists, radicals, and revolutionaries, because they were fighting for the individual freedom and each person’s importance for society. This movement is associated with the mix of contrasting pieces on oversized and simple silhouettes, the use of a variety of waterproof parkas together with technical fabrics, and the repetition of elements, an analogy to the wide use of looking glass fragments on the apparel. The iconic round symbol of this subculture broadly influences the colour palette of the clothing, from blue shades to orange and red notes.
He didn’t won anything in particular but the graphic and youthful streetwear he presented were too fun to watch and damn, I wanted to steal some pieces…
The collection “Cavalo Dado” (Gift Horse) intentionally recovers certain commonplaces and references and insists on their reinterpretation and transformation. It is about the existent intimacy between man and space, being the latter represented here by the city. It is about rhythm, progress and/or recession. It starts from the premise that the configuration of space has a tremendous impact in sensation, perception and the individual’s state of mind. It ends up analysing metaphorically man’s adaptability.
Openly more luminous, lively and focusing on streetwear, Cavalo Dado aims to work with elements that are more graphic than before, and to address a design repositioning, aimed at creating a more appealing product through the commercial prism.
And honestly, another clap for every designer who participated on Moda Lisboa | Lisboa Fashion Week. I really appreciate the effort that the association and designers make to keep fashion alive in Portugal and with a quality that keeps improving.